Day 9:  Bear Pt. on Union Falls Pond to Baker’s Acres Campgound on Saranac River (21.3 miles )

  

A long day of endurance, of which 12.9 official miles was walking, not to mention the extra 1.5 miles being lost that is not included in the amount in today’s title.

It began with a head wind and heavy rain to finish Union Falls Pond, bailing twice for almost 3 gallons of water.

My brain must have been water-logged by then, because I stopped for a photo of the dam (above), while standing on Casey Rd.  This (Casey Rd.) was the portage route around the difficult, long, dangerous stretch ahead where last year two boats were destroyed.  It was obviously the road that followed the river, but I blithely headed up a nice paved highway in the wrong direction.  Somehow my brain did eventually begin to work and I turned around.

There ensued almost 5 miles of damp, lonely walking on a barely-paved road where convicts lurked along each dismal stretch.  Only 3 cars passed and I was glad to turn onto busy Silver Lake Road, where the sled with hitch above was one of few sights for the day.

Following the plan made yesterday with Dave, I walked some more into Redford where I discovered Michigans! At a convenience store there, hot chocolate was the first order of business, then hot food.

“You don’t know what a Michigan is?”  I amazed the young man behind the counter with my ignorance , but had soon consumed two of these hot dogs with meat sauce and mustard, a banana and two cups of cocoa.

PADDLING NOTE:  There is a much easier put-in (after Separator Rapids) that the clerk told me about, just past the store.  Turn onto Pup Hill Rd., cross the bridge and put in on the left , downstream of the bridge.  Much easier access and you can have a Michigan or two along the way!

I was finally back on the river where many great blue herons kept me company through lots of easy Class II water with standing waves and speeds to 7 mph.  Sure beats walking!

High Falls Dam portage directions were super and I put in at the LOW WATER put in, which was again great advice from Dave, given the river’s power.

Arriving at Baker’s Acres Campground, finally, Ron was kind enough to dry my soaked tent in his clothes dryer.  That evening, Dan Brown told me that the second convict had been caught, the best news of a long day.

TOTAL MILES:  131.9

Day 8: Saranac Lake Village to Bear Point on Union Falls Pond (20.1 miles)

 

Morning farewell to Pati and Dave, our hosts in Saranac Lake, NY.. Pati sent me off with cherries and chocolate and a baggie of cut up veggies that I steamed with cheddar and bacon mashed potatoes for supper. Yummy!

Today was my first solo day, on which I woke quite early to sort my photos, write, and pack.  The coffee was ready early, with breakfast casserole and fruit- delicious.  Leaving, I pointed out to Dad the ancient steps and paths that took the “Tray Boys” around from cure cottage to cure cottage, delivering the special healthy meals that were part of the tuberculosis cure regime.

Then off to St. Regis Canoe Outfitters for fuel, sunscreen, a second pack towel, water, and some friendly encouragement and invaluable advice.  Dave Cilley has been generous indeed with his time in sharing his intimate knowledge of the Saranac River, scribbling lots of helpful notes on my map.  John Mautner is two days ahead.

 

Dave and Sarah from St. Regis waited outside to snap some shots of me as I paddled past onto Map 3…look for one on their Facebook page!

The moment of leaving Dad gave me butterflies, yet I yearn to test myself, to write, to reflect.

Luckily, the water had dropped a couple (?) of feet since yesterday, allowing me beneath all bridges but McCasland.  The remaining escaped convict still haunted my imagination, as I carefully positioned myself in the center of the lovely current…he couldn’t lunge out from all those bushes, could he? 

The Saranac moves briskly along for 10.5 miles to Permanent Rapida…I averaged 4 mph with no real slowing until the portage.  Where I was much closer to the bushes and couldn’t really walk down the center of the road!  I had my plan, though…bug spray in the eyes.

A good day for wildlife…many red-wing blackbirds, a deer crashing back from the river in one of its lonely stretches, and a great blue heron.  Loved wild Franklin Falls and Union Falls Ponds, especially as predicted rain held off through the evening.  I headed for the red circle Dave had drawn around Bear Point, finding a secluded, empty site with homemade bench and shelves.  Cheerful fire, aforementioned dinner, hid timidly crouched behind tent when a man motored up and then away, all those convict thoughts making me inhospitable!

TOTAL MILES:  110.6
 

Day 7: Campsite #78 on Middle Saranac Lake to Saranac Lake Village (13.8 miles)

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Wide panoramic early morning view from Middle Saranac Lake campsite
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Mother black duck cruises slowly by our campsite – note the very calm early morning water
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We passed through two set of locks today, both operated by lock keepers, which made for a quick passage into and out of the river above and below Lower Saranac River.  Margaret at the first locks said I had the lightest load she had seen so far this year, which made me feel good.  The day ended fighting power boats and wind to make it to Saranac Lake, NY and the end of Map 2.  Congratulations, Dad, who was a big help to me on what he called my shake-down cruise.  Knots, distributing my load properly, crackling campfires, taking endless photos of me, and some great company!  Now he and Mom will be my support team.

We stayed with Pati Peebles and Dave Staszak, who are hosting through-paddlers in their home where we had our own bedroom and half bath.  The NFCT has their contact information.  So thank you so much, Dave and Pati, for the healthy snacks, suggesting the Downhill Grill, the tour downtown, local history, ride to buy a flash drive, and yummy breakfast.  We had so much fun that I didn’t get much blogging done, but now I’m catching up!  Tomorrow I go solo!

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Dad has now finished Maps 1, 2 , 11, 12, and parts of 10 and 13 of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Here he signs out in Saranac Lake, NY.
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Yahoo…finished with Map 2 and so far have been self-propelled. Tomorrow I will start back at this same spot, carrying down to the Saranac River below the fast water at the dam.

TOTAL MILES: 90.5

Day 6: Raquette Falls lean-to to Campsite #78 on Middle Saranac Lake (14.3 miles)

I could easily have lingered in this campsite that was so like the West Branch or Allagash, but we were off before 8 a.m., passing the ‘boys” with a shout to Alden and Z (Zion), our Brooklyn friends.  (Somehow I deleted their photo from the Day 5 post and will need to reinsert it later).

We gently drifted and paddled through a flooded, mysterious world of silver maple, to the melody of songbirds, rounding bend after bend with impressionistic reflections doubling the beauty.

This morning, I thought, was such a contrast to yesterday.  As you trudge with aching shoulders, shrugging the portage yoke in a search for comfort, mud wrestling your shoes, grit in your socks like sandpaper, it is the hope ahead and the memories behind that fuel you and carry you to tranquil mornings of peace and wonder.

Everywhere the world was flooded and it made for some interesting paddling as we navigated Stoney Creek, picking our choice of routes.  I think Dad was enjoying finding obscure paths that worked.  And then there were the bridges that followed…

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We had to duck and pull ourselves along to make it under this bridge.

 

Unexpected portage around this last bridge about a half mile before Indian Carry. I had to add this one to the official portage list I am maintaining for my NFCT Through Paddler application.

 

Carried Indian Carry, a pretty trail with club moss and flowers, and wheeled Bartlett Carry, to end the day on Middle Saranac Lake where it was my turn to cook dinner…burritos.

 

TOTAL MILES: 76.7

Day 5: Hidden Cove on Long Lake to lean-to at end of Raquette Falls carry (15.4 miles)

 

This Adirondack Great Camp on Long Lake really looked authentic …I could happily live there

Focused on making progress, we were on the water just after 7 a.m.  Seven miles and three hours to the Raquette River…a contented paddle with Dad leading and me lagging behind for photos…of Adirondack camps and loons, including one with a funny curled up tail that I thought was a chick until I had carefully drifted close!

About one and a half miles down the picturesque, but fast moving, river, we encountered two canoes from a group we had met the day before.  They were students from Brooklyn with two of their teachers, being guided by local camp staff.  One boat had capsized and was underwater, caught in a strainer by the powerful force of the flooded river.

Now Dad loves nothing better than coming to the rescue.  We knew better than to pull into the same situation, so we paddled back upstream to the downstream side of a mostly stable old log.  I was to end up squatting on that log for 2 hours, meanwhile acquiring some new friends from Brooklyn.

Dad thought of using a nearby tree and a rope, which we supplied, along with company for some of the boys.  Quiet at first, we were soon laughing and connecting.  I guess sharing Snickers and bug spray on a rolling log is a bonding experience.

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The moment of victory after hours of effort
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After the river rescue, there was still the Raquette Falls portage to accomplish and then we were ready to find our home fot the night, and we found a good one, complete with a Adirondack chair for Dad.
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Dad went most nights without his rainfly by setting up his tent in a lean-to…isn’t he cute?

From my tent window I could see hemlocks reaching out over the water, sun shimmering through, with the sparkle of water behind.  Our cooking has gone from steak with potatoes and fruit to beans and franks to just franks rolled in tortillas.  It still tastes good!  Heard a group of coyotes right across the river at dusk, powerful and eerie.
TOTAL MILES: 62.4

Day 4: Lean-to at end of Deerland Carry to Hidden Cove on Long Lake (7.5 miles)

Only 7.5 miles, you say?  Well…let me tell you our story.  Violent thunderstorms with heavy rain had continued off and on for hours in the night, turning the difficult portage trail into a treacherous one.  Hardest was the rushing stream that now crossed the trail at a point with no boardwalk.  Ominous rumbling continued as I carried both boats (very carefully) and Dad the rest of the boat gear.  His stamina has been impressive.  Left camp about 10 a.m., already having done quite a bit!

 

Generous trail angels Tom and Judy reported more weather on the way as we stopped for a goodbye.
  
We flew down Long Lake with the wind at our backs, to the town of Long Lake, finishing Map 1 of the NFCT.
  
We flew right to The Adirondack Hotel, where I consumed a most delicious bagel with turkey, Swiss, red cabbage, and special mayo.
 

We called home and Mom reported that the escaped convicts were far away, riding the rails in PA, a huge relief.  (Also ultimately not true, but we had peace of mind for a day or two).

The wind had picked up more and on we sailed, torn between hugging the shore for safety or flying free down the middle.  Then there was that delicate point where fun becomes a bit scary.  Was it a blessing of prayer that there was a lean-to exactly there?  The waves carried us in and deposited us firmly on shore for an early camp.

An afternoon in camp is always a gift, for drying, washing, and relaxing.  Just remember to put a large rock on anything you set down or it will blow away!  And when you are done washing yourself and the laundry, you will need to pick little leaf bits out of all the crevices.  This was some serious wind and stirring up of an already- flooded shore.  Hot dogs and beans for supper on the campfire and Dad’s new twig stove.

TOTAL MILES: 47.0

Day 3: Tioga Point State Campground on Raquette Lake to lean-to at end of Deerland Carry (13.1 miles)

Both time and service have been in short supply for posting.  Tonight I finally have service and will add photos later.

Today began with two gorgeous lakes (Raquette and Forked), the wind at our backs and a couple of easy wheelable portages to get us warmed up for what lay ahead.  We are becoming skilled at launching with the wheels from docks and beaches.  Also, pushing rather than pulling, which I haven’t seen mentioned much, but which I do a lot.

Then came the test: Buttermilk Falls and Deerland carries on the Raquette River, which was the first fast water we had paddled in our new boats…a few rocks to avoid and the feel of the Allagash.  Both of us were able to carry our boats on the first carry…go Dad!  The second was another story, a long (6/10 mile), muddy, slippery mess and we were exhausted.  Each of us took some gear for the first trip and, there, at the end, was a marvelous sight.  An empty lean-to saying, “Collapse here.”

Of course, no collapsing yet.  Dad got to work on the fire and I mustered the strength for a couple more loads, the mud once sucking my shoe right off my foot!  Along the way, I met a couple with two friendly dogs.  They proceeded down to visit Dad and transformed into the world’s best trail angels.  John walked to his house downriver and paddled back with 4 beers and enough wood for a lovely campfire, making a cheery abode of the somewhat dark lean-to.  Another blessing!

TOTAL MILES:  39.5

Day 2: Seventh Lake lean-to to Tioga Point State Park on Raquette Lake (11.7 miles)

Today in photos, as I remembered to take some!  Today featured two portages, the first an easy mile through a campground and the second longer and more difficult, to lovely Brown’s Tract Inlet. Lovin’ my bug jacket from Nancy and Arne Aho!  Although bugs have overall not been bad.  It was a world of beaver lodges and dams, butterflies, and blue flag.  Only one dam to carry over (below), as water was high.


Still a bit behind schedule and tired of wakes and waves, we found lean-to #6 at Tioga Point.  Ranger Autumn was very organized and helpful to two tired paddlers.  Soon, up paddles NFCT through paddler John Mautner of Fair Haven, NJ, (with me below), also headed to Fort Kent!  We gathered for dinner and plans by the campfire.  Wonder if I will catch him again?  Hope so.  TOTAL SO FAR: 26.4 miles

Day 1: Old Forge to Seventh Lake lean-to (14.7 miles)

We were up at 5:15 and the packing and loading felt awkward and tentative, without the rhythm of veteran campers.  Everything soon fit, however, and we were off.  The sight of a doe and fawn added a touch of wildness to a day of powerboats and Adirondack camps on the Fulton Chain of Lakes.  We lunched at the Screamen Eagle in Inlet and got our first carry (wheelable) under our belts.  Dad got a helping hand from two older women and a dog for some boat steadying as he got back underway.  The day’s answered prayer was finding the very first lean-to empty.

A wide, gentle needle-strewn slope led up from the sandy beach to a bold bluff.  A granite outcropping commanded a spectacular view of undulating mountains backed by dramatic patterns of cloud and sun.  Grilled steak and peppers with mashed potatoes.  Not all was perfect. We fell a bit behind plan and I slipped and skinned knuckles during the dangerous task of dish washing.  Also realized I took no photos on the phone, just the camera.  I will try to do better!  TOTAL MILES: 14.7

On the road to Old Forge

 
Amazingly, the moment of departure finally arrived, with friends Bill and Mary Bausch stopping by to snap a farewell photo.   Bill will be the expedition archivist, maintaining a record of the SPOT tracking data and updating my progress on an old-fashioned paper map at church. 

As Dad and I drove across Vermont and entered the Adirondack Park, I felt calmer than in recent days.  Tiny hamlets with quaint churches appeared as we followed the rushing Hudson River toward its source.  Sparkling lakes, fir clad islands, rustic cabins..all reminders of why I wanted to do this.  We mused about the rapids, our thoughts traveling to our new boats, as yet untested in whitewater.  How sturdy were they, how maneuverable?  Soon we would find out.

Dad and Dan examine maps while I visit the Adirondack Hotel where we hope to stay

We dropped our boats and gear at The Forge Motel, where they kindly let us have our room early.  Then it was off to Saranac Lake with the truck, where it would wait for our arrival.  Dan Brown, who paddled the NFCT last year, had generously offered to shuttle us back to Old Forge.  From the minute we hopped in his car, we were talking about the trail and so appreciating not just the ride, but the stories and pointers.  So many kindnesses already and we haven’t even started!

Signing in at the Western Terminus, where I was the 23rd aspiring through paddler of 2015