lachandler22

Day 4: Lean-to at end of Deerland Carry to Hidden Cove on Long Lake (7.5 miles)

Only 7.5 miles, you say? Well…let me tell you our story. Violent thunderstorms with heavy rain had continued off and on for hours in the night, turning the difficult portage trail into a treacherous one. Hardest was the rushing stream that now crossed the trail at a point with no boardwalk. Ominous rumbling continued as I carried both boats (very carefully) and Dad the rest of the boat gear. His stamina has been impressive. Left camp about 10 a.m., already having done quite a bit!

Generous trail angels Tom and Judy reported more weather on the way as we stopped for a goodbye.

We flew down Long Lake with the wind at our backs, to the town of Long Lake, finishing Map 1 of the NFCT.

We flew right to The Adirondack Hotel, where I consumed a most delicious bagel with turkey, Swiss, red cabbage, and special mayo.

We called home and Mom reported that the escaped convicts were far away, riding the rails in PA, a huge relief. (Also ultimately not true, but we had peace of mind for a day or two).

The wind had picked up more and on we sailed, torn between hugging the shore for safety or flying free down the middle. Then there was that delicate point where fun becomes a bit scary. Was it a blessing of prayer that there was a lean-to exactly there? The waves carried us in and deposited us firmly on shore for an early camp.

An afternoon in camp is always a gift, for drying, washing, and relaxing. Just remember to put a large rock on anything you set down or it will blow away! And when you are done washing yourself and the laundry, you will need to pick little leaf bits out of all the crevices. This was some serious wind and stirring up of an already- flooded shore. Hot dogs and beans for supper on the campfire and Dad’s new twig stove.

TOTAL MILES: 47.0

Day 3: Tioga Point State Campground on Raquette Lake to lean-to at end of Deerland Carry (13.1 miles)

Both time and service have been in short supply for posting. Tonight I finally have service and will add photos later.

Today began with two gorgeous lakes (Raquette and Forked), the wind at our backs and a couple of easy wheelable portages to get us warmed up for what lay ahead. We are becoming skilled at launching with the wheels from docks and beaches. Also, pushing rather than pulling, which I haven’t seen mentioned much, but which I do a lot.

Then came the test: Buttermilk Falls and Deerland carries on the Raquette River, which was the first fast water we had paddled in our new boats…a few rocks to avoid and the feel of the Allagash. Both of us were able to carry our boats on the first carry…go Dad! The second was another story, a long (6/10 mile), muddy, slippery mess and we were exhausted. Each of us took some gear for the first trip and, there, at the end, was a marvelous sight. An empty lean-to saying, “Collapse here.”

Of course, no collapsing yet. Dad got to work on the fire and I mustered the strength for a couple more loads, the mud once sucking my shoe right off my foot! Along the way, I met a couple with two friendly dogs. They proceeded down to visit Dad and transformed into the world’s best trail angels. John walked to his house downriver and paddled back with 4 beers and enough wood for a lovely campfire, making a cheery abode of the somewhat dark lean-to. Another blessing!

TOTAL MILES: 39.5

Day 2: Seventh Lake lean-to to Tioga Point State Park on Raquette Lake (11.7 miles)

Today in photos, as I remembered to take some! Today featured two portages, the first an easy mile through a campground and the second longer and more difficult, to lovely Brown’s Tract Inlet. Lovin’ my bug jacket from Nancy and Arne Aho! Although bugs have overall not been bad. It was a world of beaver lodges and dams, butterflies, and blue flag. Only one dam to carry over (below), as water was high.

Still a bit behind schedule and tired of wakes and waves, we found lean-to #6 at Tioga Point. Ranger Autumn was very organized and helpful to two tired paddlers. Soon, up paddles NFCT through paddler John Mautner of Fair Haven, NJ, (with me below), also headed to Fort Kent! We gathered for dinner and plans by the campfire. Wonder if I will catch him again? Hope so. TOTAL SO FAR: 26.4 miles

Day 1: Old Forge to Seventh Lake lean-to (14.7 miles)

We were up at 5:15 and the packing and loading felt awkward and tentative, without the rhythm of veteran campers. Everything soon fit, however, and we were off. The sight of a doe and fawn added a touch of wildness to a day of powerboats and Adirondack camps on the Fulton Chain of Lakes. We lunched at the Screamen Eagle in Inlet and got our first carry (wheelable) under our belts. Dad got a helping hand from two older women and a dog for some boat steadying as he got back underway. The day’s answered prayer was finding the very first lean-to empty.

A wide, gentle needle-strewn slope led up from the sandy beach to a bold bluff. A granite outcropping commanded a spectacular view of undulating mountains backed by dramatic patterns of cloud and sun. Grilled steak and peppers with mashed potatoes. Not all was perfect. We fell a bit behind plan and I slipped and skinned knuckles during the dangerous task of dish washing. Also realized I took no photos on the phone, just the camera. I will try to do better! TOTAL MILES: 14.7

On the road to Old Forge

Amazingly, the moment of departure finally arrived, with friends Bill and Mary Bausch stopping by to snap a farewell photo. Bill will be the expedition archivist, maintaining a record of the SPOT tracking data and updating my progress on an old-fashioned paper map at church.

As Dad and I drove across Vermont and entered the Adirondack Park, I felt calmer than in recent days. Tiny hamlets with quaint churches appeared as we followed the rushing Hudson River toward its source. Sparkling lakes, fir clad islands, rustic cabins..all reminders of why I wanted to do this. We mused about the rapids, our thoughts traveling to our new boats, as yet untested in whitewater. How sturdy were they, how maneuverable? Soon we would find out.

Dad and Dan examine maps while I visit the Adirondack Hotel where we hope to stay

We dropped our boats and gear at The Forge Motel, where they kindly let us have our room early. Then it was off to Saranac Lake with the truck, where it would wait for our arrival. Dan Brown, who paddled the NFCT last year, had generously offered to shuttle us back to Old Forge. From the minute we hopped in his car, we were talking about the trail and so appreciating not just the ride, but the stories and pointers. So many kindnesses already and we haven’t even started!

Signing in at the Western Terminus, where I was the 23rd aspiring through paddler of 2015

The devil is in the details

Holding the finished portaging yoke and sporting my “canoe cut,” as Katina would say, ready for the river.

Did you know that the architect, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, often used the phrase “God is in the details,” before the devil became involved at all? Somehow that has a more positive spin, so let’s go with that. And, God, you are most welcome to jump right in and help make sure that I don’t forget to do anything before my upcoming departure date.

The details that go into the preparations for a 2-month canoe trip are almost infinite, and yet they must all be finished very, very soon. And if not finished, then abandoned.

When we were camping in Vermont, Katina Daanen kindly brought me the materials to make a cozy for my cute little .6 liter Optimus cook pot. After watching a video or two showing how it was done, I gave it a try, with the results shown below. The pot cozy weighs just under 1 ounce and I was delighted to discover that it could fit in the drawstring mesh bag, along with the cook pot, lid, stove, and fuel.

Constructed from Reflectix pipe insulation and metallic tape, this custom pot cozy will allow meals to sit and cook after boiling water is added, saving on fuel.

Thought I’d share just one more detail: the all-important first washing of the Ex Officio underwear. (In case you are wondering, the most commented-upon topic on my blog so far has been my new underwear.). And now it is time to fine tune the packing and tying in of all of the gear. Our boats came home this evening to stay until we leave, with much gratitude to Ed and Carol Knapp for sharing their lakeside yard and dock on McCurdy Pond as home base for our canoes and paddling for the past month.

Adventures in Boston…braving the big city with our eighth graders

The sweet scent of roses in the Boston Public Garden

Not much time for writing profusely, but here are some photo highlights from our June 10 and 11 trip, including my first ever photo cropped on my phone, which should come in handy on the trail.

The Dexter School was our home away from home, sharing their pool, gym, and bountiful breakfast. The school is home to one of the best observatories in the East, not to mention a planetarium and ice rink!

The Asian art and ever-popular mummies were our group’s favorites

Energized and enlightened at the Maine Canoe Symposium

DSCN6740 — Inspired by the many hand-crafted canoes and paddles at the Maine Canoe Symposium, I came home feeling creative. Last evening, I glued, sanded, and stained my new canoe yoke.

One month…two paddling events…I could get used to this. After enjoying the NFCT Freshet Fest so much, I had high expectations for the Maine Canoe Symposium. From the first scrumptious meal to the last informative workshop, we enjoyed the community, stories, advice, and especially the warm welcome and encouragement from everyone at Camp Winona in Bridgton, Maine.

Meeting Gil Gilpatrick, author of our “family Bible” on the Allagash, and his wife Dot was awesome and we took a good luck picture together after hearing about his latest Allagash trip at age 80. Dad and I also had a personal workshop (no one else had signed up) with Reinhard and Nancy Zollitsch on the most applicable topic of packing for a solo expedition. Reinhard is a sea canoe adventurer who has done many amazing unassisted solo trips along New England and the Canadian Maritimes.

Then there was Emily Turner’s valuable workshop on planning for an extended paddling trip. I have discovered a kindred spirit in Emily and we certainly share a love of planning with spreadsheets. I’ve already created an Emily-inspired spreadsheet for Leg 1 (Maps 1 and 2 of the NFCT), where Dad and I will paddle through the Adirondacks from Old Forge to Saranac Lake, NY.

Emily is really the reason we discovered the Maine Canoe Symposium. Dad met Emily last summer near Big Island on the West Branch of the Penobscot, as she came poling upriver. They shared Dad’s steak and her fresh vegetables and we have heard a lot about her ever since.

Geoff Burke (in a traditional solo boat above) taught double-bladed paddling in the first workshop that Dad and I attended. Who did I sit down next to but Beth Whelan, who through-paddled the NFCT last year (self-propelled) with her husband Paul? They were kind enough to stay Sunday to peruse my maps and answer a million questions before we all headed home. It was a nice respite from the preparations, which I resumed with vigor yesterday…making spreadsheets and granola, calling and emailing about logistics, and working on my yoke.

New friend Kathy Buhl, 2014 NFCT Through-Paddler Beth Whelan, instructor Geoff Burke, and Dad during our double-bladed paddling workshop. That’s Dad’s new Wenonah Wilderness Kevlar canoe in the background

DSCN6722 — Mom’s favorite composition from her photography workshop

Encouragement from folks like Gil and Dot Gilpatrick give me confidence for the journey ahead

Water, water everywhere and not a drop to drink

Mother’s Day gifts from my daughter Megan, including a small Sawyer water filter to try early in the trail where portage weight is a huge issue and there are many places to purchase water. Note the pretty original artwork and waterproof journal for writing the old-fashioned way.

From the NFCT Through-Paddlers Companion, written by Katina Daanen, I discovered that there are several sections of the trail where it is not safe to drink even filtered water. This requires a different mindset from the paddling that I am used to in Maine. Water will need to come from campgrounds, restaurants, trail angels, or one of the many stores along the way. (My longtime water filter that I will use for most of the trail is a Katadyn Hiker Pro weighing 13 oz.).

The primary cause of contamination is agricultural runoff from the picturesque farms in the river valleys, followed by industrial waste and plain old trash, like tires. This concern exists on sections of the Saranac (Clayburg to Plattsburgh), Mississquoi (all of it), Clyde (Newport to Derby Center) and Connecticut Rivers, the last not mentioned in the current edition of the book.

Katina’s book also describes the range of health hazards associated with this bacterial pollution from agriculture. The dangers extend beyond those associated with drinking the water, to infection from cuts and even leech bites! Let’s just say I am thankful for the friendly people and stores along the way.

A family affair…and Happy Birthday, Mom!

After creating beautiful quilts, piecing together my groundcloth was a breeze

The materials for the yoke that Dad is building for portaging my canoe

Today is my Mom’s birthday…wishing her a happy, sunny day filled with fun and a healthy, blessed year to come! My parents are my support team, not just for this latest adventure, but for life…and my love of nature was surely nurtured by all those camping trips and family forays into the great outdoors as my brother and I were growing up.

As we are nearing crunch time in being ready for my departure, it is all hands on deck at home. Last weekend (in addition to our awesome intergenerational worship at church), we were busy.

There is no footprint (groundcloth) available for my tent because it has a special reinforced floor. But I wanted one, to keep the bottom of the tent cleaner and drier. It is much easier to contain the dirt and dampness of a groundcloth in your dry bag, than an entire tent. So at the LL Bean outlet, I found a Hubba Hubba footprint for less than 14 dollars and Mom altered it to fit my tent (weight 6.7 oz).

Dad is building canoe yokes for both of us, using birch plywood left over from our new bathroom construction. Mine has a Mad River Canoe self-adhesive foam yoke pad that I purchased at Maine Sport Outfitters, which will be taped to the wooden base once we finish custom fitting it to my boat and shoulders this afternoon.

A couple of brief news items follow. My May training totals, given days under the weather, were 38 miles walking and 42 miles paddling. Mack Truax, who is through-paddling right now, made it from Old Forge, NY to Errol, NH in 14 days and only has Maine left. My computer is currently not allowing me to add links to posts, but you can find his blog link on the NFCT website under Paddlers/Paddler Blogs. Last night I slept through the night, eight hours, for the first time in 3 weeks. Only the fuzzy vision in my right eye remains…may the healing continue.

I’ll close with a few of my favorite photo memories of Mom and Dad…