NFCT – Page 7 – Laurie Apgar Chandler

Day 11: Comfort Inn, Plattsburgh to Knight Island in Lake Champlain (17.9 miles)

This morning I woke very early to take full advantage of the hotel amenities: a second shower, scrumptious breakfast, and quickly writing blog entries. As some readers have noted, I have been behind but am writing from the perspective of that paddling day.

The taxi dropped me at my new friends’ house, where Nancy kindly offered to walk with me along the Saranac River Trail to the put-in for Lake Champlain. Along the way we saw the site of the first building in Plattsburgh (corner of Green and Bridge Sts. near the put-in) and a neat old train station, still in use.

On the Saranac River Trail going through the SUNY Plattsburgh campus.

Great that Nancy was there to take this photo…finished with Map 3 and New York!

Crossing Lake Champlain, the sixth largest lake in the U.S., had me a little apprehensive and I was glad I would have company. I would be meeting Peter Macfarlane (NFCT 2013) and Dan Brown (NFCT 2014) at Cumberland Head, which was 3 miles across a large bay. Getting there turned out to be the scariest part.

The strong south wind would make it a real workout to reach the point. I took the shortest route across, telling myself to just focus on the next few waves, the biggest about 3 feet. By the end, I was reciting the 23rd Psalm, and the crashing waves hurtled me to shore, on land but still a mile up the shore against the wind to the point. A call to Peter brought reassurance and I bravely headed out again as they paddled to meet me.

The Cumberland Head lighthouse comes into sight after you round the point – victory!

Dan was paddling his sea kayak, preparing for a wilderness trip to Alaska next week. Peter, a former kayak racer, had much to teach us both.

I tried a little surfing now that we had a tail wind, which would carry me up most of Lake Champlain.

My time with these friends was immensely helpful, both for my paddling technique and for practical stuff, like attaching my SPOT so it would stay facing upward. Peter had also planned the camping logistics, reserving a site with two lean-tos on Knight Island

The forecast rain held off until late afternoon, then we headed for the island, blown along by the storm. Peter seemed pleased that I was comfortable with the rougher conditions. Truthfully, it was exhilarating and I loved it!

And thanks, Peter, for taking all those great action shots.

Home for the night…you can see Peter’s canoe that he built and used for his 2013 NFCT trip, without taking portage wheels.

TOTAL MILES: 169.8

Day 10: Baker’s Acres Campground near Picketts Corners to Comfort Inn, Plattsburgh (20.0 miles)

Up early and on the water just before 7, with a family of Canada geese to see me off. The logistics of packing have fallen into a rhythm and the pot cozies are helping me be able to make coffee or a simple meal in the tent vestibule.

The first aches and pains of an extended expedition are arriving…the usual pain and numbness in my hands and a tender left foot, which I stumbled on twice during my long day of walking. Today more complicated portages, many around dams that sprinkle this river and are largely used to generate hydroelectric power.

At one point early on, I wheeled down a residential sidewalk, thinking of the people pulling out for a normal day of work while I was off on a grand adventure. Don’t forget- every day is a gift! – which I have been writing in the trail registers when there is room.

But I digress. Cadyville Dam, Kent Falls, Treadwell Miils Dam and the intriguing ruins of Indian Rapids Dam (which I combined into one portage per Dan Brown’s advice), and Imperial Mills Dam to end a long day! Much walking, navigating, and concentrating, while favoring my left foot. I also added a couple of miles of portaging above Morrisonville, where I walked after seeing the raging river and calling Dave at St. Regis for a consultation.

Decided after that to call it a day and not attempt the wild ride into Plattsburgh with the question marks of the Bridge St. rapids and detour around river remediation work.

Walked up from the Imperial Mills put-in into a neighborhood and straight to the blessing of two more trail angels, Tom and Nancy, who spotted me from their window! Tea, fruit, a freeze-dried chicken gumbo for the road, boat storage, a ride to the Comfort Inn, these Long Trail hikers knew just what I needed. The hotel, too, had all I needed with a laundry and a great restaurant, The Plattsburgh Brewery attached. I was in heaven.

TOTAL MILES: 151.9

Day 7: Campsite #78 on Middle Saranac Lake to Saranac Lake Village (13.8 miles)

DSCN6974 — Wide panoramic early morning view from Middle Saranac Lake campsite

DSCN6981 — Mother black duck cruises slowly by our campsite – note the very calm early morning water

We passed through two set of locks today, both operated by lock keepers, which made for a quick passage into and out of the river above and below Lower Saranac River. Margaret at the first locks said I had the lightest load she had seen so far this year, which made me feel good. The day ended fighting power boats and wind to make it to Saranac Lake, NY and the end of Map 2. Congratulations, Dad, who was a big help to me on what he called my shake-down cruise. Knots, distributing my load properly, crackling campfires, taking endless photos of me, and some great company! Now he and Mom will be my support team.

We stayed with Pati Peebles and Dave Staszak, who are hosting through-paddlers in their home where we had our own bedroom and half bath. The NFCT has their contact information. So thank you so much, Dave and Pati, for the healthy snacks, suggesting the Downhill Grill, the tour downtown, local history, ride to buy a flash drive, and yummy breakfast. We had so much fun that I didn’t get much blogging done, but now I’m catching up! Tomorrow I go solo!

DSCN7043 — Dad has now finished Maps 1, 2 , 11, 12, and parts of 10 and 13 of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Here he signs out in Saranac Lake, NY.

DSCN7054 — Yahoo…finished with Map 2 and so far have been self-propelled. Tomorrow I will start back at this same spot, carrying down to the Saranac River below the fast water at the dam.

TOTAL MILES: 90.5

Day 5: Hidden Cove on Long Lake to lean-to at end of Raquette Falls carry (15.4 miles)

This Adirondack Great Camp on Long Lake really looked authentic …I could happily live there

Focused on making progress, we were on the water just after 7 a.m. Seven miles and three hours to the Raquette River…a contented paddle with Dad leading and me lagging behind for photos…of Adirondack camps and loons, including one with a funny curled up tail that I thought was a chick until I had carefully drifted close!

About one and a half miles down the picturesque, but fast moving, river, we encountered two canoes from a group we had met the day before. They were students from Brooklyn with two of their teachers, being guided by local camp staff. One boat had capsized and was underwater, caught in a strainer by the powerful force of the flooded river.

Now Dad loves nothing better than coming to the rescue. We knew better than to pull into the same situation, so we paddled back upstream to the downstream side of a mostly stable old log. I was to end up squatting on that log for 2 hours, meanwhile acquiring some new friends from Brooklyn.

Dad thought of using a nearby tree and a rope, which we supplied, along with company for some of the boys. Quiet at first, we were soon laughing and connecting. I guess sharing Snickers and bug spray on a rolling log is a bonding experience.

DSCN6895 — The moment of victory after hours of effort

DSCN6897 — After the river rescue, there was still the Raquette Falls portage to accomplish and then we were ready to find our home fot the night, and we found a good one, complete with a Adirondack chair for Dad.

DSCN6903 — Dad went most nights without his rainfly by setting up his tent in a lean-to…isn’t he cute?

From my tent window I could see hemlocks reaching out over the water, sun shimmering through, with the sparkle of water behind. Our cooking has gone from steak with potatoes and fruit to beans and franks to just franks rolled in tortillas. It still tastes good! Heard a group of coyotes right across the river at dusk, powerful and eerie.
TOTAL MILES: 62.4

Day 4: Lean-to at end of Deerland Carry to Hidden Cove on Long Lake (7.5 miles)

Only 7.5 miles, you say? Well…let me tell you our story. Violent thunderstorms with heavy rain had continued off and on for hours in the night, turning the difficult portage trail into a treacherous one. Hardest was the rushing stream that now crossed the trail at a point with no boardwalk. Ominous rumbling continued as I carried both boats (very carefully) and Dad the rest of the boat gear. His stamina has been impressive. Left camp about 10 a.m., already having done quite a bit!

Generous trail angels Tom and Judy reported more weather on the way as we stopped for a goodbye.

We flew down Long Lake with the wind at our backs, to the town of Long Lake, finishing Map 1 of the NFCT.

We flew right to The Adirondack Hotel, where I consumed a most delicious bagel with turkey, Swiss, red cabbage, and special mayo.

We called home and Mom reported that the escaped convicts were far away, riding the rails in PA, a huge relief. (Also ultimately not true, but we had peace of mind for a day or two).

The wind had picked up more and on we sailed, torn between hugging the shore for safety or flying free down the middle. Then there was that delicate point where fun becomes a bit scary. Was it a blessing of prayer that there was a lean-to exactly there? The waves carried us in and deposited us firmly on shore for an early camp.

An afternoon in camp is always a gift, for drying, washing, and relaxing. Just remember to put a large rock on anything you set down or it will blow away! And when you are done washing yourself and the laundry, you will need to pick little leaf bits out of all the crevices. This was some serious wind and stirring up of an already- flooded shore. Hot dogs and beans for supper on the campfire and Dad’s new twig stove.

TOTAL MILES: 47.0

Day 3: Tioga Point State Campground on Raquette Lake to lean-to at end of Deerland Carry (13.1 miles)

Both time and service have been in short supply for posting. Tonight I finally have service and will add photos later.

Today began with two gorgeous lakes (Raquette and Forked), the wind at our backs and a couple of easy wheelable portages to get us warmed up for what lay ahead. We are becoming skilled at launching with the wheels from docks and beaches. Also, pushing rather than pulling, which I haven’t seen mentioned much, but which I do a lot.

Then came the test: Buttermilk Falls and Deerland carries on the Raquette River, which was the first fast water we had paddled in our new boats…a few rocks to avoid and the feel of the Allagash. Both of us were able to carry our boats on the first carry…go Dad! The second was another story, a long (6/10 mile), muddy, slippery mess and we were exhausted. Each of us took some gear for the first trip and, there, at the end, was a marvelous sight. An empty lean-to saying, “Collapse here.”

Of course, no collapsing yet. Dad got to work on the fire and I mustered the strength for a couple more loads, the mud once sucking my shoe right off my foot! Along the way, I met a couple with two friendly dogs. They proceeded down to visit Dad and transformed into the world’s best trail angels. John walked to his house downriver and paddled back with 4 beers and enough wood for a lovely campfire, making a cheery abode of the somewhat dark lean-to. Another blessing!

TOTAL MILES: 39.5

Day 2: Seventh Lake lean-to to Tioga Point State Park on Raquette Lake (11.7 miles)

Today in photos, as I remembered to take some! Today featured two portages, the first an easy mile through a campground and the second longer and more difficult, to lovely Brown’s Tract Inlet. Lovin’ my bug jacket from Nancy and Arne Aho! Although bugs have overall not been bad. It was a world of beaver lodges and dams, butterflies, and blue flag. Only one dam to carry over (below), as water was high.

Still a bit behind schedule and tired of wakes and waves, we found lean-to #6 at Tioga Point. Ranger Autumn was very organized and helpful to two tired paddlers. Soon, up paddles NFCT through paddler John Mautner of Fair Haven, NJ, (with me below), also headed to Fort Kent! We gathered for dinner and plans by the campfire. Wonder if I will catch him again? Hope so. TOTAL SO FAR: 26.4 miles

On the road to Old Forge

Amazingly, the moment of departure finally arrived, with friends Bill and Mary Bausch stopping by to snap a farewell photo. Bill will be the expedition archivist, maintaining a record of the SPOT tracking data and updating my progress on an old-fashioned paper map at church.

As Dad and I drove across Vermont and entered the Adirondack Park, I felt calmer than in recent days. Tiny hamlets with quaint churches appeared as we followed the rushing Hudson River toward its source. Sparkling lakes, fir clad islands, rustic cabins..all reminders of why I wanted to do this. We mused about the rapids, our thoughts traveling to our new boats, as yet untested in whitewater. How sturdy were they, how maneuverable? Soon we would find out.

Dad and Dan examine maps while I visit the Adirondack Hotel where we hope to stay

We dropped our boats and gear at The Forge Motel, where they kindly let us have our room early. Then it was off to Saranac Lake with the truck, where it would wait for our arrival. Dan Brown, who paddled the NFCT last year, had generously offered to shuttle us back to Old Forge. From the minute we hopped in his car, we were talking about the trail and so appreciating not just the ride, but the stories and pointers. So many kindnesses already and we haven’t even started!

Signing in at the Western Terminus, where I was the 23rd aspiring through paddler of 2015

The devil is in the details

Holding the finished portaging yoke and sporting my “canoe cut,” as Katina would say, ready for the river.

Did you know that the architect, Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, often used the phrase “God is in the details,” before the devil became involved at all? Somehow that has a more positive spin, so let’s go with that. And, God, you are most welcome to jump right in and help make sure that I don’t forget to do anything before my upcoming departure date.

The details that go into the preparations for a 2-month canoe trip are almost infinite, and yet they must all be finished very, very soon. And if not finished, then abandoned.

When we were camping in Vermont, Katina Daanen kindly brought me the materials to make a cozy for my cute little .6 liter Optimus cook pot. After watching a video or two showing how it was done, I gave it a try, with the results shown below. The pot cozy weighs just under 1 ounce and I was delighted to discover that it could fit in the drawstring mesh bag, along with the cook pot, lid, stove, and fuel.

Constructed from Reflectix pipe insulation and metallic tape, this custom pot cozy will allow meals to sit and cook after boiling water is added, saving on fuel.

Thought I’d share just one more detail: the all-important first washing of the Ex Officio underwear. (In case you are wondering, the most commented-upon topic on my blog so far has been my new underwear.). And now it is time to fine tune the packing and tying in of all of the gear. Our boats came home this evening to stay until we leave, with much gratitude to Ed and Carol Knapp for sharing their lakeside yard and dock on McCurdy Pond as home base for our canoes and paddling for the past month.

May you find fireplace birds

Sometimes you will never know the value of a moment until it becomes a memory.
Dr. Suess

We christened them the “fireplace birds,” but of course they had another name. In those shortening days toward the end of August 2009, the Allagash was a quiet place. As Dad and I canoed from Umsaskis Bridge to Michaud Farm, the cool mornings and chilly swimming were more than compensated for by moose heavy with antlers and the beautiful solitude of the river.

Our cheeky friends first visited us at Lock Dam. Hopping contentedly among the ashes of the fire pit, focused on pecking who knows what, they were surprisingly tame. The colorful male and his drab partner were a species new to us. Dad and I love our birds, especially new ones, and felt their presence yet another gift of the late summer wilderness. Imagine our surprise, the next evening, when we discovered two more in the Outlet campsite on Round Pond.

Dad and I will never forget those birds, or the midnight stampede of a moose through our campsite and down into the river with a mighty splash, or our first otter family in the Musquacook Deadwater. A journey is so much more than the destination. One of my hopes for this summer is to absorb the experience, treasure the moments. And which parts will live on in my stories, in the memories of my heart? I don’t know, of course. But if you ask me why I will live on tuna and granola, portaging in the pouring rain and paddling into the wind, with sweat and bugs my closest friends, I go because of the fireplace birds, whatever they will be.

Oh, that’s right, you would like to know what those birds were, right? White-winged Crossbills, Loxia leucoptera, a finch that feeds almost exclusively on spruce and tamarack seeds, eating up to 3,000 in a single day!