lachandler22

Day 14: Stealth campsite near East Highgate to Missisquoi River behind The Abbey Restaurant (8.7 miles)

I’m glad I didn’t stay awake all night worrying about those rapids! Instead, I rested well and woke to bird song, as good as an alarm clock at about 4:15. The sun rose higher, stronger, conquering the early morning chill. And I conquered the rapids in a half hour, carrying my gear first, then lining the boat.

The river returned to its calm nature around a large oxbow. The multitude of birds, one with a flash of yellow, took me back in a flash to paddling into Lago Yojoa a year ago with Megan. Wow, does Honduras ever have fascinating birds!

Next up was the approach to the Sheldon Springs power facility. Remember not to rush, scout it well, and, yes, I made it to the regular low water portage that is totally wheelable. A friendly young man working there offered me a ride, but was happy to take my photo instead. (The rushing water in the background was the discharge that I successfully avoided.)

The welcome and accessibility at the hydroelectric projects in NY and VT reminds me of the North Maine Woods philosophy of opening wilderness roads and land for recreation. This facility, which actually produces way more electricity from a huge field of solar panels than from its run-of-river hydroelectric plant built in the 1910’s, lets paddlers camp on their grounds. (I learned a lot resting and eating my lunch in the shade of their lovely informational kiosk.)

Wheeled along the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail for a few miles to avoid Abbey Rapids and ended up at the hospitable Abbey Restaurant for the night, camping down by the river.

TOTAL MILES: 216.9

Day 13: The Swanton Motel to a stealth campsite just past East Highgate, VT on the Missisquoi River (12.3 miles)

This was a common view as I wound my way up the river, hugging that shore (and enjoying a great tail wind). My gift to myself was the whole morning in the motel and I didn’t get on the river until after noon. You can’t push all the time.

My companionship with the river’s shore brought me close to this Joe Pye Weed, the sweet smell of purple vetch, the surprising sight of a family of five baby ducks with no mother, and beaver, many beaver. Late in the evening, I came upon a family or colony of beaver, the two largest patrolling back and forth and tail slapping long after several little ones had slithered down the bank and plopped into the water. Very cool!

At the first of two portages (Highgate Falls), I met four Northeastern graduates who are section paddling the NFCT, going downstream here. They told me the portage trail was a mess (actually used stronger language) and I should have believed them! On and off the wheels three times and I still had to carry the boat at the end as a huge gully had washed out the road.

There is a pretty NFCT campsite at the start of this portage. John Mautner had signed the register and, in the comments, reported that a bear had swum across in front of his canoe. Now that is very cool! John is still about two days ahead of me.

A fine example of stealth camping after the second portage and before some rapids I will need to figure out in the morning. just enough flat dry ground under a tree to fit my tent and canoe hidden among the ferns. Goodnight!

TOTAL MILES: 208.2

Day 12: Knight Island on Lake Champlain to The Swanton Motel, Swanton, VT (26.1 miles)

Hero’s Welcome’s pastries lived up to their reputation and were a great motivator to get us up and on our way early, crossing from our campsite back to North Hero Island. Peter and I said goodbye to Dan, who was not feeling well, and headed home. Safe travels and awesome adventures in Alaska, Dan! By the way, I had a chocolate pastry with coffee, a giant ham and cheese pastry for lunch, and took a peach scone for the road.

Peter signing in at the NFCT kiosk…fun to read who else is paddling and valuable for safety purposes

I learned an incredible amount from Peter in the two days that he carved out of his busy summer Celtic music and fiddle lesson schedule. One huge discovery is that I am twisting my wrists too much, which is the likely cause of my numbness and pain. Now to try to unlearn a bad habit. Relax my hands, don’t have a death grip on the paddle, move my torso…lots to concentrate on as the miles go by.

As we started the 1.5 mile crossing from Stephenson Point to Clark Point, the skies let loose. “This would be the time to head straight for the closest shore,” said Peter. Luckily, we saw no lightning.

Our paddling today proved that we are both a little crazy, as we just kept going and going, warmed in the torrential rain by our exertion and stopping now and then to dump the water out of our boats. Peter’s car was parked at the Rt. 78 bridge, but he offered to go a little farther, giving me a chance to get some advice on upstream paddling.

I love this photo which captures the spirit of a day of challenges and discovery. Did you know that putting on a warm, dry layer under a soaking wet jacket will really warm you up?

As we entered the Missisquoi River, which I will paddle upstream, we were in a wildlife refuge full of birds. I was also on the lookout for the threatened Spiny Softshell Turtle, finally seeing and photographing a turtle after I left Peter, but I haven’t identified it yet.

So what did I learn about upstream paddling? Hug the shore on the inside of curves and I mean HUG IT. We wove in and out of trees draped over the river and paddled so close to grassy banks that there was barely room for a paddle. This is also, I have discovered, a great way to see wildlife!

I left Peter at Louie’s Landing after washing my boat at the Clean-Drain-Dry Station that the NFCT installed there to prevent the spread of invasive species. On to The Swanton Motel, where I don’t expect to leave tomorrow until checkout time. I was on Lake Champlain only 28 hours!

TOTAL MILES: 195.9

Day 11: Comfort Inn, Plattsburgh to Knight Island in Lake Champlain (17.9 miles)

This morning I woke very early to take full advantage of the hotel amenities: a second shower, scrumptious breakfast, and quickly writing blog entries. As some readers have noted, I have been behind but am writing from the perspective of that paddling day.

The taxi dropped me at my new friends’ house, where Nancy kindly offered to walk with me along the Saranac River Trail to the put-in for Lake Champlain. Along the way we saw the site of the first building in Plattsburgh (corner of Green and Bridge Sts. near the put-in) and a neat old train station, still in use.

On the Saranac River Trail going through the SUNY Plattsburgh campus.

Great that Nancy was there to take this photo…finished with Map 3 and New York!

Crossing Lake Champlain, the sixth largest lake in the U.S., had me a little apprehensive and I was glad I would have company. I would be meeting Peter Macfarlane (NFCT 2013) and Dan Brown (NFCT 2014) at Cumberland Head, which was 3 miles across a large bay. Getting there turned out to be the scariest part.

The strong south wind would make it a real workout to reach the point. I took the shortest route across, telling myself to just focus on the next few waves, the biggest about 3 feet. By the end, I was reciting the 23rd Psalm, and the crashing waves hurtled me to shore, on land but still a mile up the shore against the wind to the point. A call to Peter brought reassurance and I bravely headed out again as they paddled to meet me.

The Cumberland Head lighthouse comes into sight after you round the point – victory!

Dan was paddling his sea kayak, preparing for a wilderness trip to Alaska next week. Peter, a former kayak racer, had much to teach us both.

I tried a little surfing now that we had a tail wind, which would carry me up most of Lake Champlain.

My time with these friends was immensely helpful, both for my paddling technique and for practical stuff, like attaching my SPOT so it would stay facing upward. Peter had also planned the camping logistics, reserving a site with two lean-tos on Knight Island

The forecast rain held off until late afternoon, then we headed for the island, blown along by the storm. Peter seemed pleased that I was comfortable with the rougher conditions. Truthfully, it was exhilarating and I loved it!

And thanks, Peter, for taking all those great action shots.

Home for the night…you can see Peter’s canoe that he built and used for his 2013 NFCT trip, without taking portage wheels.

TOTAL MILES: 169.8

Day 10: Baker’s Acres Campground near Picketts Corners to Comfort Inn, Plattsburgh (20.0 miles)

Up early and on the water just before 7, with a family of Canada geese to see me off. The logistics of packing have fallen into a rhythm and the pot cozies are helping me be able to make coffee or a simple meal in the tent vestibule.

The first aches and pains of an extended expedition are arriving…the usual pain and numbness in my hands and a tender left foot, which I stumbled on twice during my long day of walking. Today more complicated portages, many around dams that sprinkle this river and are largely used to generate hydroelectric power.

At one point early on, I wheeled down a residential sidewalk, thinking of the people pulling out for a normal day of work while I was off on a grand adventure. Don’t forget- every day is a gift! – which I have been writing in the trail registers when there is room.

But I digress. Cadyville Dam, Kent Falls, Treadwell Miils Dam and the intriguing ruins of Indian Rapids Dam (which I combined into one portage per Dan Brown’s advice), and Imperial Mills Dam to end a long day! Much walking, navigating, and concentrating, while favoring my left foot. I also added a couple of miles of portaging above Morrisonville, where I walked after seeing the raging river and calling Dave at St. Regis for a consultation.

Decided after that to call it a day and not attempt the wild ride into Plattsburgh with the question marks of the Bridge St. rapids and detour around river remediation work.

Walked up from the Imperial Mills put-in into a neighborhood and straight to the blessing of two more trail angels, Tom and Nancy, who spotted me from their window! Tea, fruit, a freeze-dried chicken gumbo for the road, boat storage, a ride to the Comfort Inn, these Long Trail hikers knew just what I needed. The hotel, too, had all I needed with a laundry and a great restaurant, The Plattsburgh Brewery attached. I was in heaven.

TOTAL MILES: 151.9

Day 9: Bear Pt. on Union Falls Pond to Baker’s Acres Campgound on Saranac River (21.3 miles )

A long day of endurance, of which 12.9 official miles was walking, not to mention the extra 1.5 miles being lost that is not included in the amount in today’s title.

It began with a head wind and heavy rain to finish Union Falls Pond, bailing twice for almost 3 gallons of water.

My brain must have been water-logged by then, because I stopped for a photo of the dam (above), while standing on Casey Rd. This (Casey Rd.) was the portage route around the difficult, long, dangerous stretch ahead where last year two boats were destroyed. It was obviously the road that followed the river, but I blithely headed up a nice paved highway in the wrong direction. Somehow my brain did eventually begin to work and I turned around.

There ensued almost 5 miles of damp, lonely walking on a barely-paved road where convicts lurked along each dismal stretch. Only 3 cars passed and I was glad to turn onto busy Silver Lake Road, where the sled with hitch above was one of few sights for the day.

Following the plan made yesterday with Dave, I walked some more into Redford where I discovered Michigans! At a convenience store there, hot chocolate was the first order of business, then hot food.

“You don’t know what a Michigan is?” I amazed the young man behind the counter with my ignorance , but had soon consumed two of these hot dogs with meat sauce and mustard, a banana and two cups of cocoa.

PADDLING NOTE: There is a much easier put-in (after Separator Rapids) that the clerk told me about, just past the store. Turn onto Pup Hill Rd., cross the bridge and put in on the left , downstream of the bridge. Much easier access and you can have a Michigan or two along the way!

I was finally back on the river where many great blue herons kept me company through lots of easy Class II water with standing waves and speeds to 7 mph. Sure beats walking!

High Falls Dam portage directions were super and I put in at the LOW WATER put in, which was again great advice from Dave, given the river’s power.

Arriving at Baker’s Acres Campground, finally, Ron was kind enough to dry my soaked tent in his clothes dryer. That evening, Dan Brown told me that the second convict had been caught, the best news of a long day.

TOTAL MILES: 131.9

Day 8: Saranac Lake Village to Bear Point on Union Falls Pond (20.1 miles)

Morning farewell to Pati and Dave, our hosts in Saranac Lake, NY.. Pati sent me off with cherries and chocolate and a baggie of cut up veggies that I steamed with cheddar and bacon mashed potatoes for supper. Yummy!

Today was my first solo day, on which I woke quite early to sort my photos, write, and pack. The coffee was ready early, with breakfast casserole and fruit- delicious. Leaving, I pointed out to Dad the ancient steps and paths that took the “Tray Boys” around from cure cottage to cure cottage, delivering the special healthy meals that were part of the tuberculosis cure regime.

Then off to St. Regis Canoe Outfitters for fuel, sunscreen, a second pack towel, water, and some friendly encouragement and invaluable advice. Dave Cilley has been generous indeed with his time in sharing his intimate knowledge of the Saranac River, scribbling lots of helpful notes on my map. John Mautner is two days ahead.

Dave and Sarah from St. Regis waited outside to snap some shots of me as I paddled past onto Map 3…look for one on their Facebook page!

The moment of leaving Dad gave me butterflies, yet I yearn to test myself, to write, to reflect.

Luckily, the water had dropped a couple (?) of feet since yesterday, allowing me beneath all bridges but McCasland. The remaining escaped convict still haunted my imagination, as I carefully positioned myself in the center of the lovely current…he couldn’t lunge out from all those bushes, could he?

The Saranac moves briskly along for 10.5 miles to Permanent Rapida…I averaged 4 mph with no real slowing until the portage. Where I was much closer to the bushes and couldn’t really walk down the center of the road! I had my plan, though…bug spray in the eyes.

A good day for wildlife…many red-wing blackbirds, a deer crashing back from the river in one of its lonely stretches, and a great blue heron. Loved wild Franklin Falls and Union Falls Ponds, especially as predicted rain held off through the evening. I headed for the red circle Dave had drawn around Bear Point, finding a secluded, empty site with homemade bench and shelves. Cheerful fire, aforementioned dinner, hid timidly crouched behind tent when a man motored up and then away, all those convict thoughts making me inhospitable!

TOTAL MILES: 110.6

Day 7: Campsite #78 on Middle Saranac Lake to Saranac Lake Village (13.8 miles)

DSCN6974 — Wide panoramic early morning view from Middle Saranac Lake campsite

DSCN6981 — Mother black duck cruises slowly by our campsite – note the very calm early morning water

We passed through two set of locks today, both operated by lock keepers, which made for a quick passage into and out of the river above and below Lower Saranac River. Margaret at the first locks said I had the lightest load she had seen so far this year, which made me feel good. The day ended fighting power boats and wind to make it to Saranac Lake, NY and the end of Map 2. Congratulations, Dad, who was a big help to me on what he called my shake-down cruise. Knots, distributing my load properly, crackling campfires, taking endless photos of me, and some great company! Now he and Mom will be my support team.

We stayed with Pati Peebles and Dave Staszak, who are hosting through-paddlers in their home where we had our own bedroom and half bath. The NFCT has their contact information. So thank you so much, Dave and Pati, for the healthy snacks, suggesting the Downhill Grill, the tour downtown, local history, ride to buy a flash drive, and yummy breakfast. We had so much fun that I didn’t get much blogging done, but now I’m catching up! Tomorrow I go solo!

DSCN7043 — Dad has now finished Maps 1, 2 , 11, 12, and parts of 10 and 13 of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail. Here he signs out in Saranac Lake, NY.

DSCN7054 — Yahoo…finished with Map 2 and so far have been self-propelled. Tomorrow I will start back at this same spot, carrying down to the Saranac River below the fast water at the dam.

TOTAL MILES: 90.5

Day 6: Raquette Falls lean-to to Campsite #78 on Middle Saranac Lake (14.3 miles)

I could easily have lingered in this campsite that was so like the West Branch or Allagash, but we were off before 8 a.m., passing the ‘boys” with a shout to Alden and Z (Zion), our Brooklyn friends. (Somehow I deleted their photo from the Day 5 post and will need to reinsert it later).

We gently drifted and paddled through a flooded, mysterious world of silver maple, to the melody of songbirds, rounding bend after bend with impressionistic reflections doubling the beauty.

This morning, I thought, was such a contrast to yesterday. As you trudge with aching shoulders, shrugging the portage yoke in a search for comfort, mud wrestling your shoes, grit in your socks like sandpaper, it is the hope ahead and the memories behind that fuel you and carry you to tranquil mornings of peace and wonder.

Everywhere the world was flooded and it made for some interesting paddling as we navigated Stoney Creek, picking our choice of routes. I think Dad was enjoying finding obscure paths that worked. And then there were the bridges that followed…

We had to duck and pull ourselves along to make it under this bridge.

Unexpected portage around this last bridge about a half mile before Indian Carry. I had to add this one to the official portage list I am maintaining for my NFCT Through Paddler application.

Carried Indian Carry, a pretty trail with club moss and flowers, and wheeled Bartlett Carry, to end the day on Middle Saranac Lake where it was my turn to cook dinner…burritos.

TOTAL MILES: 76.7

Day 5: Hidden Cove on Long Lake to lean-to at end of Raquette Falls carry (15.4 miles)

This Adirondack Great Camp on Long Lake really looked authentic …I could happily live there

Focused on making progress, we were on the water just after 7 a.m. Seven miles and three hours to the Raquette River…a contented paddle with Dad leading and me lagging behind for photos…of Adirondack camps and loons, including one with a funny curled up tail that I thought was a chick until I had carefully drifted close!

About one and a half miles down the picturesque, but fast moving, river, we encountered two canoes from a group we had met the day before. They were students from Brooklyn with two of their teachers, being guided by local camp staff. One boat had capsized and was underwater, caught in a strainer by the powerful force of the flooded river.

Now Dad loves nothing better than coming to the rescue. We knew better than to pull into the same situation, so we paddled back upstream to the downstream side of a mostly stable old log. I was to end up squatting on that log for 2 hours, meanwhile acquiring some new friends from Brooklyn.

Dad thought of using a nearby tree and a rope, which we supplied, along with company for some of the boys. Quiet at first, we were soon laughing and connecting. I guess sharing Snickers and bug spray on a rolling log is a bonding experience.

DSCN6895 — The moment of victory after hours of effort

DSCN6897 — After the river rescue, there was still the Raquette Falls portage to accomplish and then we were ready to find our home fot the night, and we found a good one, complete with a Adirondack chair for Dad.

DSCN6903 — Dad went most nights without his rainfly by setting up his tent in a lean-to…isn’t he cute?

From my tent window I could see hemlocks reaching out over the water, sun shimmering through, with the sparkle of water behind. Our cooking has gone from steak with potatoes and fruit to beans and franks to just franks rolled in tortillas. It still tastes good! Heard a group of coyotes right across the river at dusk, powerful and eerie.
TOTAL MILES: 62.4