Day 52: Big Brook South on the Allagash River to Allagash Village (9.8 miles)

I woke to crisp air and ate the last pack of Quaker cranberry walnut protein oatmeal, a delicious choice that I didn’t tire of all trip.  I stayed late in camp again, photographing more mushrooms and drying all my gear thoroughly, as tonight would be a cabin night.

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I had forgotten how beautiful the last miles of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway were, with tall conifers as a backdrop for green grassy banks.  I felt the sadness of ten years ago, treasuring every mile, knowing that next summer’s plans may not bring me to the Allagash at all.  The thought of the meal awaiting me at Two Rivers Lunch did cheer me up a little and kept me from just stopping altogether.  This section includes some Class II rapids, both those at Twin Brooks (marked on the map) and another set midway between McGargle Rocks and Ghost Landing Bar.  These names are haunting, as both stem from logging fatalities of a bygone era.

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I was worried I would end with 13 moose for the trip, but just past the sign announcing the end of the Allagash Wilderness Waterway, I spotted a young bull, tallied as Moose #14.
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Two Rivers Lunch in Allagash Village is always a most welcome sight after days on the river. Waiting for Mom and Dad, I had plenty of time for a salad, cheeseburger, fries, and ice cream.

Tonight we would be staying right here, behind the restaurant, in one of the cabins owned by Tylor Kelly’s Camps.  In 2011, when I arrived in Allagash Village with Dad and Taylor during Paddle for Hope, Sue Kelly gave us the warmest welcome imaginable.  She baked us brownies, brought us shampoo and half and half and let me use her computer for hours (not to mention donating to our fundraising for the Maine Children’s Cancer Program)!   We had made a friend, and have since come to know the rest of her friendly family.  So tonight felt like home, especially after Mom and Dad drove in with pork chops to cook for dinner.  Tomorrow Dad will rejoin me to paddle the St. John River, perhaps in one marathon day to Fort Kent.  We’ll see!

TOTAL MILES: 718.9

3 thoughts on “Day 52: Big Brook South on the Allagash River to Allagash Village (9.8 miles)”

  1. Your pictures, especially the first one, were just what I needed to see tonight. It made me wish I was floating downriver rather than working on my professional development presentations. Thank you.

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  2. Laurie: I was looking through your photos of the last few days again and came across the stack of kindling left at Big Brook South Campsite. It occurred to me that the experiences of your NFCT adventure are like spiritual kindling that you’ve carefully gathered, cut, split, stacked, and sheltered over the past fifty-two days. Each piece has the potential to bring light, warmth, comfort, and joy not only to you, but many others, for years to come! Arne (and Nancy).

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