Tag: Bayeux

The soul of the Airborne resides in this place: La Fière bridge and the Iron Mike memorial, Normandy

Walking the hallowed ground where men of the 82nd Airborne held a key bridge with valor and tremendous sacrifice of lives. Two Medals of Honor were awarded for actions taken here.

The Saturday morning outdoor market around the corner from our hotel
We loved the heart-shaped Neufchâtel cheese, recommended by a woman with me in line. We also bought Calvados, strawberries and a yellow pepper, but passed up the live chickens and quail.
Our rental vehicle has given us the freedom to stop and explore along the way. Here, we got out to watch a line of planes pass overhead, wondering if there was a paratrooper drop about to happen.

After returning home last evening, we sat in the courtyard outside our room, with the sun warming us at last. In the quiet, Lance began to talk about the day. He felt a new lightness of heart and spirit, even the sense that a physical weight had been lifted from his shoulders after making the pilgrimage to the La Fière bridge near Sainte-Mère-Église. There, “on one of the most hotly contested pieces of ground in WW2,” the men of the 82nd Airborne proved their valor. That quote, and the title above, come from the famous Iron Mike memorial.

This small stone bridge across the Merderet River was crucial to Allied troop movements inland from Utah Beach. In June 1944, the pastoral countryside was heavily flooded and the men who landed, on target, on the far side of the bridge would defend it at any cost.
This friendly gentleman took our photo, and we took his. His cute little dog rides in the basket!
This relief map shows the manor house and bridge as they stand today. A soldier with a bazooka on the left before the bridge was key to taking out two of the three German Panzer tanks in the first day of the four-day battle. The third was destroyed by the paratroopers on the far side of the bridge. No enemy forces ever succeeded in crossing the river.
At the Iron Mike memorial with a USAF captain who will help drop 1,200 paratroopers at La Fière on June 9 as part of the 80th anniversary commemoration. The planes that morning had been on practice runs for the big event. The paratroopers with their red berets that we’ve been seeing everywhere came over to France on those same planes. Men from Lance’s battalion fought here. The 618th Engineer Company (nicknamed The Nasty), in which he served, is part of the 307th Engineer Battalion, forever memorialized on the base of Iron Mike.

We crossed the bridge as a tractor raked hay in a nearby pasture and a couple of fishermen tossed their lines into the water. By an old stone church, yellow roses bloomed. The sun peeked out once more and all this history seemed so long ago. That church, the Cauquigny Chapel, and its cemetery, however, were the scene of intensive fighting on the far side of the bridge during the same battle.

The chapel in 1944. A stone clock, shattered and forever silenced, hangs today on the front wall of the restored building. On the afternoon of June 6, paratroopers who had dropped on the far side of the river held the chapel until driven away by German tanks. They escaped through the cemetery.
The past and present photos of buildings are everywhere, proof of the massive devastation of war.
This chicken quarter smothered in vegetables was fabulous, paired with a local cider
The best (so far) of the FOUR hamburgers Lance has sampled. I treated my favorite member of the 82nd Airborne to lunch for a change, at Les Ecuries in Sainte-Mère-Église.

An ordinary and extraordinary day: The Olympic Flame reaches Bayeux

Pastries for breakfast from the local patisserie included apple in puff pastry (2nd from right) and our favorite so far, an almond and chocolate delight on the far left. I am having more of those!

Bonjour from our French studio apartment! After days of off and on rain showers, the weather forecast has improved for the rest of our trip. My plan for this post is to show you our day yesterday in photos. The rainy morning and surprising news that the Olympic flame would pass through Bayeux kept us close to home. The police presence was unbelievable, and many routes would be blocked, so we breakfasted at home and walked to do our laundry and shopping. Our plan was to take a taxi to see the Bayeux tapestry in the afternoon, but in the end we drove after all and found a superb parking spot right by the museum. Anyway, here goes…enjoy!

If you’re going to get caught outside in a drenching thunderstorm, being on your way to dry clothes at the laundromat is not such a bad thing. After our laundry was finished, the rain sent us into a cafe where Lance discovered a new love: cafe au lait!
Cafe au lait with tiny cookies as an added bonus
Normandy is, of course, known for its fine soft cheeses. At the fromagerie, I found Pont l’Evêque, to pair with duck terrine from the charcuterie, and fresh baguette.
The culinary adventures of French town life
We saw much of the town in search of a parking space. Lance is driving admirably in our rented black Range Rover Evoque. He has an assertive style and parallel parking skills that fit well here.
Photo detail of the Bayeux Tapestry as photos of the original are not allowed. Note the realistic movement of the horses debarking from the ship with William, soon to be William the Conqueror.

Having visited the tapestry before in 2018, here is what I wrote then: the 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry is a remarkable work of art and storytelling. Embroidered with richly dyed woolen yarns on a 224-foot-long strip of linen, it is not actually a tapestry at all. Tapestries are woven, not embroidered. Its colors, primarily blues, greens, gold, and russet, still hold true after more than nine centuries.

Going to see this treasure is a must; the visitor experience is so well done. Before entering the darkened room, each person is given an audio guide, like a telephone handset, that narrates the tale and keeps everyone spaced out and moving at the same pace. The subtle lighting enhances the colors, and you can move up close to see the details of the stitching. These are stock photos.

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The tapestry’s more than fifty scenes tell of the events leading up to the Norman Conquest, culminating in the famous Battle of Hastings in 1066. There’s a Norman spin to the story. The scene at the start of this post shows the coronation of King Harold after the death of England’s King Edward, despite Harold having previously pledged allegiance to William of Normandy. Much like a comic strip or graphic novel, the scenes are action-packed, depicting treachery, heroism, and humor. The audio guide pointed out details we might have missed, like Hailey’s Comet, seen as a portent of the coming invasion.

Lance watching for the Olympic flame to pass in front of our hotel. The runner with the flame was preceded by numerous sponsoring companies with ample fanfare and giveaway merch and surrounded by many, many police runners also attired in white.
The Olympic flame passes by our hotel
Filet mignon de porc sauce pomme et calvados for dinner

Well, wouldn’t you know, the forecast for today has changed to showers and rain. So once again we don our raincoats and set out for another adventure!

A corner of France that is forever England: The Bayeux War Cemetery

The British cemetery in Bayeux is a place of peace and beauty

Beneath spreading chestnut trees, fallen soldiers of the Commonwealth rest

Crisply edged, pure green grass. The flowers, a riot of color from an English cottage garden. The messages from family that adorn each stone. Together, these touches somehow brought comfort and honor and a rightness as we wandered the largest of the British cemeteries, right here in Bayeux.

One of 338 unidentified soldiers buried here, each one “known to God”
One of several double graves, probably the remains of brother soldiers found together
Leaving a message of remembrance in the visitor register
1st Officer H.L. Abrin, an American with the R.A.F. Ferry Command, is one of over five hundred soldiers of other nationalities buried here. Surprisingly, most are German.
The epitaphs were as individual as the men who gave their all for freedom
Like the world, we will always remember

A morning in Bayeux, Normandy: Our home away from home

A French breakfast and visit to the Bayeux Cathedral, a 13th century Gothic marvel rivaling Paris’ Notre-Dame in size

The cobblestone passage from our apartment to the street

Our home for a week, a small studio apartment at the Hôtel le St. Patrice, has a rustic farmhouse feel. Perhaps it was once a stable. Ancient iron rings are anchored in the one rough stone wall of our bedroom. Other amenities, like the shower and generous skylight are new. (By the way, twilight lingered last evening until ten o’clock).

French breakfasts offer variety far beyond those at home

Breakfast (14 euros per person) was an adventure in learning. A machine whirred and steamed and produced the most delicious cafe au lait. I had three cups. Breakfast (for me) was French bread and butter with apricot preserves, cheeses, salami, a banana, and a little fruit dessert in a cup.

Street scene near the cathedral
William the Conqueror was in attendance when the original Romanesque cathedral was consecrated in 1077. Only the western towers and the crypt were preserved in the 13th century Gothic cathedral that remains an active Episcopal church.
I prayed and lit a candle in honor in celebration of my granddaughter Emilia
Descending into the ancient crypt, which was rediscovered in 1412
The haunting lighting enhances the mystery of the crypt, whose murals depict musician angels playing instruments of the late Middle Ages, like the harp, lute, oboe, trumpet, and bagpipes.

We’re on our way: Traveling to Normandy for the 80th anniversary of the D-Day invasion

We’ll be grateful to reach today’s destination, an apartment in Bayeux near Omaha Beach.

View leaving the Boston area on Aer Lingus enroute to Paris and Normandy, France

It feels momentous, unbelievable, delightful, and sacred. Twelve days in France leading up to the 80th anniversary of the Normandy invasion on June 6, 1944. Our friends Kathy and Steve wished us bon voyage, with the hope we would “enjoy every moment – the profound and the light-hearted.” There are certain to be plenty of both emotions. Lance served in the Army as a paratrooper in the 82nd Airborne. For him there could be no more profound pilgrimage.

Cheers to a new beer on the plane

We counted up. Traveling to Bayeux would happen in seven stages: car, bus, plane, plane, cab, train, and rental car. We’ve checked each one off so far without too many surprises. Aer Lingus fed us a delicious Irish beef stew and chocolate mousse for dinner, and we watched Napoleon before managing to get a little sleep. Approaching Dublin early this morning, the moon shone through veils of cloud and the lights of the city twinkled below. We were glad to be across the Atlantic and well on our way.

The inflight map provided all kinds of data
The cab ride from Charles de Gaulle airport to the train station gave us a taste of Paris
This post comes from the train on stage six of our journey

I am much anticipating staying for an entire week at a Bayeux hotel apartment where we will have a kitchenette and outdoor patio. Having a home base and rental car will allow us flexibility in exploring all the historic sites and enjoying local foods from the markets and shops. Two nights each in Rouen and Paris round out our French adventure. For now, I’m going to enjoy the sunny French countryside from the train window.

A millennium ago in Normandy

Coronation of Harold

The 11th-century Bayeux Tapestry is a remarkable work of art and storytelling. Embroidered with richly dyed woolen yarns on a 224-foot-long strip of linen, it is not actually a tapestry at all. Tapestries are woven, not embroidered. Its colors, primarily blues, greens, gold, and russet, still hold true after more than nine centuries.

Going to see this treasure is a must; the visitor experience is so well done. Before entering the darkened room, each person is given an audio guide, like a telephone handset, that narrates the tale and keeps everyone spaced out and moving at the same pace. The subtle lighting enhances the colors and you can move up close to see the details of the stitching. No photography is allowed; these photos are from Wikimedia.

330px-Bayeux_tapestry_laid_work_detail

The tapestry’s more than fifty scenes tell of the events leading up to the Norman Conquest, culminating in the famous Battle of Hastings in 1066. There’s a Norman spin to the story. The scene at the start of this post shows the coronation of King Harold after the death of England’s King Edward, despite Harold having previously pledged allegiance to William of Normandy. Much like a comic strip or graphic novel, the scenes are action-packed, depicting treachery, heroism, and humor. The audio guide pointed out details we might have missed, like Hailey’s Comet, seen as a portent of the coming invasion.

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Mont-Saint-Michel is even older than the Bayeux Tapestry. Clinging to the top of the island of Mont-Tombe, this monastic enclave has grown over the centuries and has long been a place of pilgrimage. Early in the 11th century, the abbey church was built.

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The simplicity of the architecture and stained glass, the glorious weather, and the silent presence of the nuns and priests who still serve here, made this a very meaningful time for Megan and I, who climbed to the top for the full self-guided tour.

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The Benedictine monks ate in silence in the refectory, shown below, while one read scripture from the pulpit in the right wall.

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The wheel below was used to haul provisions up to the abbey in the years following the French Revolution when it was used as a prison.

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Below the abbey, the narrow streets were packed with shops and tourists. We settled for a quick picnic lunch before hurrying to catch up with Mom and Dad. We tried two types of galettes or buckwheat crepes, vegetable (filled with spinach, mushrooms, and tomatoes) and a cooked apple and cheese variety. We loved them!

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A freedom dearly won

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Men would have to come to France by sea, and many would have to die.

It was simply a question of where to land and when. Tens of thousands of lives depended on finding the best answer. At the Musée Memorial 1944 Bataille de Normandie, which we visited in Bayeux, it was sobering to learn that an entire department of the military was fully prepared to handle all the fallen soldiers before the first had even landed.

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Two alternative plans were considered for Operation Overlord, the initial sea-borne invasion that would liberate France. The first, crossing the Pas-de-Calais, where Great Britain and France lie closest, seemed intuitive. There, in northeast France near Belgium, the Allies would be far closer to friendly air support and supplies, and within striking distance of the heart of Germany. The strait, though, was heavily defended.

The beaches of Lower Normandy, forever memorialized now with the simple code names Utah, Omaha, Gold, Juno, and Sword, were also well protected,. There were mines, physical obstacles (Dad stands by one above), and artillery batteries hidden in bunkers. But there was also a weakness. If the bridges across the Seine and the Loire were destroyed, the German troops would be cut off from reinforcements. So, on June 6, 1944, the Allies cast the die there.

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This museum’s focus was the entire battle for Normandy, up until the liberation of Paris in late August 1944. I wish we had more carefully researched which museum to visit. The town of Bayeux was a good choice for us, though, as we also saw the Bayeux tapestry, part of a future post. We opted for a quick lunch in town, ham and cheese crepes with some of the fabulous Normandy cider, then returned to the museum for the English showing of their film, which did not even include any footage of the beach landings.

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At the museum, the woman at the information desk grew very emotional as she told me that veterans still often return to visit the area. I was moved, too by the photos of town after town where homes and churches were reduced to rubble.

My greatest wish had been to visit one or more military cemeteries. In fact, I’d seen a documentary about German cemeteries still carefully tended by the French. So it was a huge disappointment to arrive at the American cemetery near Omaha Beach literally as the entrance gates swung shut, 15 minutes before the posted closing time. Almost crying, I was tempted to try to wiggle through the ornate gate that barred the way, but didn’t.

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Today, Omaha Beach looks much like any other beach, even down to the running children and lipstick-pink umbrellas. This sculpture, called Les Braves, was commissioned for the 60th anniversary of the D-Day landings. What happened there may seem invisible, but after a visit to France, I know that it is not forgotten.

Someday I will come back, to walk among the headstones of the fallen soldiers and pay my respects. After finding our hotel in Saint-Malo, one of an excellent chain called Ibis Style, we enjoyed our best dinner yet at a harborside restaurant called Le Spinnaker.

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